Chapter outline and page reference:
Introduction 272
Raivataka Mountain Festival of the Mahabharat 273
Girnar Lili Parikrama 275
Bhavnath Shivaratri 279
Bhadarvi Amas at Damodar Kund 285
Guru Purnima at Dattatrey Peak 285
Vaghesvari Festival 285
Moslem Festivals 286
Jain Festival at Neminath Temple 287
Girnar Climbing Competition 287
Junagadh Festivals 288
Junagadh Girbhi 289
Chapter preview (first three pages only):
‘First sight of Girnar’
Strange with half-hewn god-faces that upbear
A listening quietude of giant caves,
The prisoner eternities of earth
Have wakened in this purple loneliness.
Each granite block comes cloven to the eye
As if the blue voice of the Unknowable
Broke through its sleep: like memories left behind
Of some enormous sculpture-cry of soul
The rocks reveal their shattered silences.
[a poem written by one of Sri Aurobindo’s disciples; from Sethna and Ghose (1972)]
Introduction
Rajyagor (1975, page 482) commented that: ‘In the past, when means of communications were not developed, fairs were the only market places for the village people, who could purchase articles for domestic use from these fairs…There is now practically little or no need on the part of village-folk to go to fairs for purchase of consumer goods. Yet fairs have not lost their importance even in modern times…They provide fun and enjoyment to the children, adults and the aged alike.’
Referring to Gujarat State, Chokshi and Trivedi (1989, page 363) noted that: ‘The total number of fairs held in the State is over 1500. The congregation at these fairs varies according to the season and exigencies of agricultural operations. Among the total fairs, 349 and 292 fairs are held in reverence to Lord Shiva and Lord Krishna respectively. Next in order, 189 fairs are dedicated to Mataji, 175 fairs to Muslim pirs, 85 to Holi Mata, 60 to Hanuman, 51 to Shitla Mata and 27 to Ramdev Pir. The rest are dedicated to rivers (Nadi Tirtha), serpent god, Rama, local deities, Bhathiji, Ganesh, sea-god, mythological personages, etc.
‘Fairs are generally associated with deities, religious festivals and agricultural seasons. Because of religious, social, historical and numerical importance, some of the fairs are note-worthy. During the fairs, besides the usual religious practices of having a dip in holy waters of the river, lake etc., and reverence to the deity, cultural activities, such as film shows, exhibition, cattle shows, etc., are also organised by the concerned authorities.’
Rajyagor (1975, page 483) noted that: ‘In all 54 fairs are held in this district [of Junagadh] at different places and at different times of the year.’ Of these, he listed as the three most important, the Liliparikrama, Bhadarvi Amas and Bhavnath Mahadev fairs, all held at Girnar, and he indicated that each was attended by more than 100,000 people.
Raivataka Mountain Festival of the Mahabharat
As early as during the days of the Mahabharat, Raivataka or Girnar was the location of an important mountain festival. In Section 221 (Subhadra-harana Parva) of the Adi Parva of the Mahabharat the following passage refers specifically to this Girnar festival (Ganguli 1883–1896a):
‘Vaisampayana said, ‘O best of monarchs, within a few days after this, there commenced on the Raivataka mountain, a grand festival of the Vrishnis and the Andhakas. At the mountain-festival of the Bhojas, the Vrishnis and the Andhakas, the heroes of those tribes began to give away much wealth unto Brahmanas by thousands. The region around that hill, O king was adorned with many a mansion decked with gems and many an artificial tree of gaudy hue. The musicians struck up in concert and the dancers began to dance and the vocalists to sing. And the youth of the Vrishni race, enbued with great energy, adorned with every ornament, and riding in their gold-decked cars, looked extremely handsome. The citizens, some on foot and some in excellent cars, with their wives and followers were there by hundreds and thousands. And there was the lord Haladhara (Valarama), roving at will, hilarious with drink, accompanied by (his wife) Revati, and followed by many musicians and vocalists. There came Ugrasena also, the powerful king of the Vrishni race, accompanied by his thousand wives and followed by sweet singers. And Raukmineya and Shamva also, ever furious in battle, roved there, excited with drink and adorned with floral wreaths of great beauty and with costly attires, and disported themselves like a pair of celestials. And Akrura and Sarana and Gada, and Vabhru, and Nisatha, and Charudeshna, and Prithu, Viprithu, and Satyaka, and Satyaki, and Bhangakara, and Maharava, and Hardikya, and Uddhava, and many others whose names are not given, accompanied by their wives that followed by bands of singers, adorned that mountain-festival. When that delightful festival of immense grandeur commenced, Vasudeva and Partha went about, together, beholding everything around. While wandering there, they saw the handsome daughter of Vasudeva, Bhadra by name, decked with every ornament, in the midst of her maids.’
It was during this Raivataka festival that Arjun fell in love with Vasudev Krishna’s sister Subhadra. He took away the maiden with the secret consent of Krishna, but provoked the anger of other Yadav heroes.
A further reference, in the Mahabharat, to the occasion of the Raivataka festival is found in Section 59 of the Aswamedhika Parva (Ganguli 1883–1896b):
‘Vaisampayana said, ‘Having granted that boon to Utanka, Govinda, accompanied by Satyaki, proceeded to Dwaraka on his car drawn by his large steeds endued with great speed. Passing many lakes and rivers and forests and hills, he at last came upon the delightful city of Dwaravati. It was at the time, O king, when the festival of Raivataka had begun, that he of eyes like lotus-petals arrived with Satyaki as his companion. Adorned with many beautiful things and covered with diverse Koshas made of jewels and gems, the Raivataka hill shone, O king, with great splendour. That high mountain, decked with excellent garlands of gold and gay festoons of flowers, with many large trees that looked like the Kalpa trees of Indra’s garden, and with many golden poles on which were lighted lamps, shone in beauty through day and night. By the caves and fountains the light was so great that it seemed to be broad day. On all sides beautiful flags waved on the air with little bells that jingled continuously. The entire hill resounded with the melodious songs of men and women. Raivataka presented a most charming prospect like Meru with all his jewels and gems. Men and women, excited and filled with delight, O Bharata, sang aloud. The swell of music that thus rose from that foremost of mountains seemed to touch the very heavens. Everywhere were heard spouts and loud whoops of men who were in all stages of excitement. The cackle of thousands of voices made that mountain delightful and charming. It was adorned with many shops and stalls filled with diverse viands and enjoyable articles. There were heaps of cloths and garlands, and the music of vinas and flutes and mridangas was heard everywhere. Food mixed with wines of diverse kinds was stored here and there. Gifts were being ceaselessly made to those that were distressed, or blind, or helpless. In consequence of all this, the festival of that mountain became highly auspicious. There were many sacred abodes built on the breast of that mountain, O hero, within which resided many men of righteous deeds. Even thus did the heroes of Vrishni’s race sport in that festival of Raivataka. Equipped with those mansions, that mountain shone like a second Heaven. At the arrival of Krishna, O chief of Bharata’s race, that prince of mountains resembled the blessed abode of Indra himself.’
Indraji and Jackson (1896) suggested that: ‘the large fair still held in Magh (February – March) in the west Girnar valley near the modern temple of Bhavanath is perhaps a relic of this great Yadava fair.’ It is recorded in the Brhatkalpa-bhasya (6th century AD) that at Ujjayanta (Girnar) people celebrated an annual feast called a sankhadi (Jain 1984).
Girnar Lili Parikrama
The annual Girnar Lili Parikrama (pradakshina or circumambulation) takes place from Kartik Sud (bright half) 11 to 15 (around mid November). The festival is held with the awakening of the gods (Dev Prabodini Ekadasi = awakening 11th, ie the end of Chaturmas), when religious minded people have completed their course of penance and religious observances, and the public