VOLUME 1: Junagadh – Names, History, Notable People, and Tourist Information

VOLUME 1
INTRODUCTION

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Mount Girnar, with the town of Junagadh at its foot on the western side, is located 60 km from the coast, near the middle of the Saurashtra Peninsula, in the State of Gujarat of far western India, and about 365 km north-west of Mumbai.
Junagadh, literally ‘old fort’, enjoys the reputation of being one of the oldest towns of India and is probably just as old as, if not older than, Prabhas Patan (Somnath), on the coast about 70 km due south of Junagadh. It has been said, by Major Watson (1884a) that Junagadh: ‘..situated as it is under the Girnar and Datar hills, is one of the most picturesque towns of India, while in antiquity and historical interest it yields to none’. Atri (1968) endorsed the antiquity of Junagadh: ‘Amongst the historic places in India, Junagadh in Kathiawar is without doubt, one of the most ancient.’ Sir WW Hunter (1892) said even that Junagadh ‘is among the most picturesque cities in the world, and has a history dating from the ancient Buddhist period – a period to which its stronghold of Uparkot still bears witness by its rock-hewn monastic caves.’ Roy (1954) also has expressed the antiquity and significance of the city: ‘Situated near the foot of the Girnar Hills is Junagarh, (ancient Girinagara) one of the most ancient cities of India the guardian spirit of Saurastra and the custodian of its ancient history.’ Nanavati (2003, page 86) noted that: ‘Junagadh…is one of the most ancient town[s] of Saurashtra as well as of Bharatvarsha.’ Sanyal (2012) wrote that: ‘Girnar is remarkable not just for these [Edict Rock] inscriptions. It is one of those places where fragments from India’s long history sit piled up on top of each other. To experience this, climb up the hillock behind the rock inscriptions and above the picturesque Kali shrine. On one side, you will see Girnar hill with its multitude of ancient Hindu-Jain temples. On the other side is Junagarh fort and town. The fort is one of the oldest in the world and, according to legend, the upper citadel was built by Krishna’s army’.
Altekar (1924–5, pages 20–21) stated that: ‘Since ancient times Girinagara has been a very famous place; and no wonder, for it was at once a ‘tirtha,’ a capital, a hill station, a fort and a place of fair. Hence it was that Asoka found it a very suitable place for the wide publication of his rock edicts. To Hindus, Jainas and Buddhists alike Girinagara is a ‘tirtha’…With its hill-fort dominating the surrounding rich plains of Saurashtra, Girinagara was an ideal place for the capital. And there is ample evidence to show that it has been its capital since very early times.’ Jamindar (1983) equated the importance of ancient Girinagara (Junagadh) with that of Pataliputra (Patna): ‘These were the only two cities in ancient India, which as capital cities, had a prominent place in the political history of India.’
The name Girinagar nicely fuses the mountain (Girnar) and the town (Junagadh). Sankalia (1949, page 50) suggested that what is now Junagadh was, before the 13th century, called Girinagar, a city on or at the foot of a hill. This hill was called Urjayat, Ujjayanta, Raivataka, Gomanta, etc. Thus, the name Girinagar was used in the Mauryan, Indo-Greek, Western Kshatrap, Gupta and then the Maitraka periods. Sharma (1978) was of the opinion that the modern name Girnar for the mountain was a switch over to it from the city name Girinagar. An alternative explanation for the origin of the name Girnar could be a simple abbreviation of Girinar, a name implying ‘man mountain’ (giri = mountain, nar = man), or even Girinaryan, implying the ‘son of man, or son of God’ as of the avatar or incarnation of God. One of many good reasons for understanding Girnar as ‘man mountain’ is the clear and unmistakable face of a man visible when the mountain is viewed from the west to north-west (see photographs on front cover and page 6 of Volume 3), a sight that was probably not overlooked even in the remotest past of human occupation. It is worth considering that a city placed at the entrance to the valley passageway leading into the hallowed Mount Girnar, as Junagadh is, could have been in the remote past perfectly appropriately called Dvaraka (doorway), describing it as the gateway permitting access to Girnar (ie man mountain) and providing a superb vision of gods face, in the form of the very realistic image of a man’s face in the western escarpment of the central ridge of Mount Girnar. If the original Dvaraka was adjacent Girnar, then the coastal port Dvaraka, as the present Dwaraka is positioned, could be seen as the secondary Dvaraka or the gateway leading to the original Dvaraka of Girnar fame, in the interior of Saurashtra.
It is interesting to note that the feminine Girnari refers to the lady or goddess of the mountain, i.e. Ambaji, whose temple is on the first peak. Girnar’s mountain peaks from early times have been associated with Krishna, who can be seen as an avatar of God, and with Dattatrey, who can be seen as the triple gift of God. Thus the name Girinar for the mountain is coincidentally akin to Girinagar, for the town at the foot of the hill. This town of Junagadh is called by the 10th–13th century name of the fort, viz. Jirna-durga. The Junagadh fort or citadel is nowadays called by the name Uparkot.
Steeped in history, culture, spirituality and religion, Junagadh is the foundation of Saurashtra. For architecture and history, unspoilt and colourful Junagadh is an exciting town to explore. An ancient fortified city, with a chequered past, it has an interesting mix of mosques, Hindu temples, Buddhist monuments, Gothic archways and beautiful mansions. Pandya (2007, page 101) was trying to stress the significant contribution that four major religions played in the history and present condition of Junagadh, when he said that the city was: ‘…probably one of the only places in Gujarat which is influenced by all four religions, viz., Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Muslim.’
Bustling bazaars and winding narrow streets alternate with monuments that span two millennia and civic buildings that must have been gracious before they suffered crowding and encroachment. The town is friendly and relatively hassle free, and receives only few foreign visitors. Ward (1994) has said of the location that: ‘Though for some incomprehensible reason excluded by most major travel companies from their Indian itineraries, Junagadh and its neighbouring Girnar Hill must be one of the most exciting and historically vibrant cities in the subcontinent.’ Galton (2012) described his first impressions of Junagadh with positive sentiments that have been mirrored by many other first-time visitors: ‘Junagadh, I can say without reservation…is one of the loveliest places I have been to on this trip…for sheer charm, beauty, friendliness and historic interest, I can easily put it right near the top of the list.’ Singh et al (2013, page 715) commented on the limited number of tourists visiting Junagadh, and on the location of the city, sitting in the shadow of the striking prominences of Mount Girnar: ‘Reached by few tourists, Junagadh is nestled against some of the most impressive topography in Gujarat.’
In the late 19th century, Kadaka (1886) praised Junagadh: ‘The town has a handsome appearance and the palace is a fine building. Of late years many public buildings have been erected, and the town has been much improved by fine houses built by the nobles of the Court. There is a nice circle of shops called the Mohobat Circle in front of the Nawab’s palace’. In the early 20th century, Edwardes and Fraser (1907) said of Junagadh that: ‘To the traveller who has journeyed from afar over the flat and almost treeless plains of Kathiawar, the first sight of the ancient city of Junagadh comes as a grateful revelation. You see the white buildings of the city embowered in groves of mango trees, the great grim citadel, or Uparkot, on a rocky plateau beyond, and as a magnificent background the precipitous heights on the Girnar Hills rising sheer out of the plain. After the monotonous level expanse of Central Kathiawar no more agreeable prospect can be conceived. Nor does closer acquaintance modify the vividness of first impressions. If the streets of the city are narrow and tortuous and hemmed in by lofty houses, they are full of interest to the stranger.’ Referring to Junagadh, Griffith (1894) noted that: ‘In the capital there are groves of mango trees, and the quince and apple thrive

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